TRAVEL
Great Canadian RIVERS 
History 
Ecosystem 
Culture 
Recreation 
Economy 

 
ExploitsRiverHistory

The Beothuk's Inner Refuge
Was the Exploits River valley an aboriginal haven or a refuge of last resort? Mounting historical evidence suggests that the proudly independent Beothuk, Newfoundland's last indigenous people, were far more at home harpooning seals in Notre Dame Bay or gathering seabird eggs on Funk Island, than they were building caribou fences along the Exploits River or trapping beaver deep in the interior of Red Indian Lake.

Bounty of the Sea:
At the Beothuk archeological site of Boyd's Cove, in eastern Notre Dame Bay, well-preserved refuse pits reveal that in the 18th century, coast-dwelling Beothuk enjoyed an abundant, varied diet of harp and harbour seals, polar bears, geese, caribou, smelts, clams, mussels, sculpin and flounder. They lived in warm, water-tight, bark-covered wigwams dug firmly into the ground and banked with insulating earth. They were masters of the sea, skillfully navigating their steep-sided, sharp-prowed birch bark canoes through wind and waves. Unlike most other North American aboriginals, the Beothuk had not been forced to alter their traditional lifestyles to trade with Europeans. In the bleak solitude of Newfoundland winters, they had simply helped themselves to the nails, fish hooks and other iron tools left behind by departed European fishing boats, re-fashioning them to their own particular use.
The Beothuk: Countdown to Extinction
200 (A.D.) - First appearance of Beothuk in coastal areas of Newfoundland. Territory shared with Dorset Eskimo. Origins thought to be mainland Algonkian, closely linked with Mi'Kmaq, Montagnais and Naskaupi. Total population estimated to be less than 1,000 people.

600 - Beothuk are only remaining aboriginals in Newfoundland.

1000 - Vikings (Norse) establish settlement at L'Anse aux Meadows in northern Newfoundland, trade with Beothuk, referring to them as "Skraelings."

1100 - Vikings abandon Newfoundland.

1497 - Venetian navigator John Cabot reaches Newfoundland, comes in contact with Beothuk.

1501 - Portuguese explorer Gaspar Core-Real visits Newfoundland, captures 50 Beothuk slaves.

1507 - French fishermen take 7 Beothuk captives to France.

1612 - British colonist John Guy attempts to establish a permanent settlement at Conception Bay. Peaceful contact with Beothuk temporarily established.

1613 - Beothuk assemble to trade with Guy, but crew of a passing fishing vessel shoots at them, causing them to flee and trust to be destroyed. French fisherman shoots at a Beothuk who is trying to rob him. Beothuk retailiate, killing 37 Frenchmen. French respond by encouraging Mi'Kmaq seasonal hunters to settle permanently along Newfoundland's southern coast, arming them with guns and fostering an alliance against the Beothuk. Beothuk are driven steadily inland, by expanding European and Mi'Kmaq settlement around the island. Beothuk territory shrinks to inland lakes and rivers.

1720 - Hostilities erupt between British salmon fishers in Bonavista Bay and Notre Dame Bay and Beothuk. Further deadly conflict between Beothuk and English trappers.

1758 - Beothuk mother and child killed by settlers, retaliation by Beothuk against fishing crew in Bay of Exploits, and white settlers in Hall's Bay.

1768 -
Evidence of English brutality toward Beotuck disturbs Governor John Palliser. Lt. John Cartwright sent up Exploits River to make peace. No Beothuk sighted, despite evidence of their existence. Population of 350-500 confined to Exploits River valley.

1781 - Following years of ambushes and retaliations between Beothuk and settlers, John Peyton Sr. leads an expedition up the Exploits River, firing into a mamateek and killing a fleeing Beothuk.

1792 - George Cartwright of Labrador agitates for protection of Beothuk, warning of their imminent extinction. Captain George Pulling proposes a peace mission to the Beothuks, recording many acts of British violence. No action taken by government officials.

1803 - Newfoundland government offers a reward to anyone who brings a live Beothuk to St. John's for peacemaking purposes.

1810 - British government issues official proclamation for protection of Beothuk.

1811 - Captain David Buchan leads an expedition up Exploits River, encounters settlement at Red Indian Lake. Peaceful meeting turns deadly, when 2 British men are left overnight with Beothuk and beheaded. Total tribe population: 72.

1819- John Peyton Jr., with government permission, pursues Beothuk on Exploits River after they sabotage his salmon fishing boat. Peyton's men capture Demasduit, a young Beothuk mother, but kill her husband, Chief Nonosabasut. Peyton later acquitted of his murder. Demasduit, also known as Mary March, taken to St. John's.

1820 - Citizens of St. John's form committee to return Demasduit to her people. Captain David Buchan attempts to take her back to Red Indian Lake, but she dies en route, at Botwood, of tuberculosis. Buchan returns her remains to the settlement at Red Indian Lake without sighting other Beothuk. Her body is found by her people and buried with her husband and child.

1822 - Adventurer-explorer William Eppes Cormack searches for Beothuk while trekking across Newfoundland. Makes no contact, concludes that natives are on the verge of extinction. Founds "Beothick Institution" to conduct further research into Beothuk culture.

1823 - Furriers find 3 Beothuk women in starving condition, transport them to John Peyton Jr. on Exploits Island. Older women die, youngest, known as Shanawdithit, survives to join Peyton household as a servant. Shanawdithit provides extensive details about the Beothuk culture, estimating remaining population at 12-13 people, too few to maintain caribou fences and completely cut off from former means of existence. Shanawdithit spends time in Cormack's household, and home of Newfoundland Attorney General. Dies of tuberculosis in St. John's in 1829. Last known Beothuk.


But the golden age of the Beothuk culture was short-lived. In the 19th century, as the shores of Newfoundland were overtaken by year-round European fishers, furriers and loggers, and as misunderstanding, animosity and contempt grew between the aboriginals and the newcomers, the Beothuk were cut off from their livelihood. Refusing to capitulate to European notions of domination and superiority, they had nowhere to go but in - into the heart of the island. Following the upstream course of the Exploits, Newfoundland's longest river, the hungry, displaced Beothuk retreated permanently to their winter hunting grounds, to a steadily deteriorating life of subsistence, disease, starvation, and finally, of total extinction.

Matty Mitchell's Metal
Who was the first to discover the Buchans lode, one of the richest ore deposits in the world? A rich blend of legend, lore and historical fact attributes the finding to Matty Mitchell, a Montagnais-Mi'Kmaq prospector from Bonne Bay. In 1905, Mitchell, whose hunting and trapping family that had long travelled the waterways of central Newfoundland interior, led an expedition from Grand Falls, along the Exploits River to the north shore of Red Indian Lake. Mitchell and his companion, St. John's mining engineer William F. Canning, had been hired to survey and assess the mineral potential of the Red Indian Lake and Victoria Lake watersheds. All water, timber and mineral rights of the area had been granted for a term of 99 years to the Anglo-Newfoundland Development Company (A.N.D. Co)., founded by British newspaper magnates Alfred and Harold Harmsworth.

One version of the orebody discovery paints a colourful picture of Mitchell blithely boiling his kettle on the shore of the Buchans River, only to find a sample of lead, melted by the campfire. The actual circumstances of the discovery are undocumented, but records indicate that Mitchell and Canning had located 3 outcrops of lead and copper ore along the Buchans River within days of setting out from Grand Falls. Historians have speculated that the ore locations were already well known to the aboriginals of the area, and that Mitchell's "discovery" was in fact a re-location of a previously discovered mineral site.

The Buchans ore discovery was only one of the famous exploits attributed to the larger-than-life Mitchell. As a hunter, furrier, prospector and guide, he developed an intimate knowledge of the Newfoundland interior. In 1908, he led a small party of Laplanders and their herd of 50 reindeer on a harrowing 600-kilometre wilderness trek from St. Anthony to Millertown. Mitchell died in Corner Brook in 1922 at the age of 75, just 5 years before a producing mine was established on the site of his ore discovery.

The Ubiquitous A.N.D. Company
A pulp and paper plant, mine, railway, dairy, post office, hospital and even a movie theatre - in the Exploits River valley of the early 20th century, the Anglo-Newfoundland Development Company - known by its apt acronym as the "A.N.D. Company" - controlled much of the region's industrial and commercial sector.

Established in 1905 by a land grant from the Newfoundland government, the company was founded by Alfred and Harold Harmsworth, publishers of London's Daily Mail and Daily Mirror. The brothers, who eventually earned the titles of Lord Northcliffe and Lord Rothermere, wished to secure a reliable source of pulp and paper for their newsprint supply. As part of their controversial property arrangement, they agreed to pay a royalty to the government of 5% of net profits derived from mining operations on Company lands.

On the frontier of the Newfoundland interior, the A.N.D. Company quickly established an overwhelming corporate presence. It founded the pulp and paper industry in Grand Falls on the lower Exploits, and conducted the original exploration of the Buchans Mine just north of Red Indian Lake. (The Company eventually sold its share of the operation to the American Smelting and Refining Company.) In 1910, the Company took complete control of the newly-constructed Botwood Railway, from Grand Falls to the seaport of Botwood on the Bay of Exploits, operating it as a corporate subsidiary until 1957. Employees and associates of the Company were provided with milk produced by the A.N.D. Company Dairy Farm, the ill and injured were treated at the Grand Falls A.N.D. Company hospital, and even movie-goers were entertained by the A.N.D. Company moving-picture theatre in Grand Falls.

Until 1960, when Price Brothers and Company acquired a large share of A.N.D. Company stock, the community of Grand Falls operated as a company town, with housing, schools, and retail and recreational services falling under corporate control. Families and businesses were not permitted to locate inside the town's boundaries without Company permission, leading to the development of Grand Falls Station, incorporated in 1938 as Windsor, just north of Grand Falls. Amalgamation of the 2 towns into Grand Falls-Windsor took place in 1991.

All Aboard the Botwood Railway
With logging, sawmilling, mining and pulp and paper operation firmly established in the Exploits valley early in the 20th century, the Botwood Railway, from Grand Falls to Botwood, provided the necessary shipping link between the hinterland and the coast. Constructed from 1909-1910, the rail line carried goundwood pulp bound for export, and coal, sulphur, china clay and limestone bound for import. At the rail yard in Botwood, mountains of paper, awaiting ships, were stored in sheds, and a roundhouse and shops built and maintained both freight and passenger cars. Ore from the Buchans Mine, deep in the Exploits interior, was shipped to Grand Falls on Canadian National Railway tracks and transferred to the Botwood Railway for transport to the ocean-going ore boats.

During the 1930's, 1940's and 1950's, the Botwood Railway was the main artery of the lower Exploits valley, offering a train for every purpose:
• The "Nickle Train" carried movie-goers from Botwood and Bishop's Falls to the theatre in Grand Falls, for a fare of only 5 cents.
• The "Shopping Train" took Botwood and Bishop's Falls residents to Grand Falls early in the morning, returning conveniently in mid-afternoon.
• The "Milk Service" ran each day as part of the general freight schedule, carrying bottles of fresh milk packed in wooden crates from Grand Falls to Botwood.
• The "Soldier's Train" was added to the regular schedule during WWII to allow Canadian servicemen based at Botwood and Phillip's Head to travel to Grand Falls for Saturday evening entertainment..
• The "Shawnawdithit" was a luxury railway passenger car built in the 1920's to transport corporate officials and dignitaries from the port of Botwood to Grand Falls. The car was subsequently used by travelling school teachers, visiting remote Exploits Valley communities.



Loading logs on bush train
William James Topley/National Archives of Canada/PA011590
The Botwood Heritage Centre
The colorful history of the Botwood Railway, as well as the town's role as a shipbuilding centre, terminal for early trans-Atlantic passenger aviation, and military base during World War II are portrayed through exhibits and artifacts at the Botwood Heritage Centre, located on the former Botwood Air Base. The Centre also explores early Beothuk culture of the area, and traces the history of early European explorations and settlement of Exploits Bay.
Early Lumber Barons of the Exploits Valley
Reverend William Botwood - Spiritual pursuits were not the only concern of Reverend William Botwood, resident Anglican clergyman of Exploits Bay during the 1860's. Recognizing the untapped timbering potential of the Exploits River Valley, the Reverend bought nearly all of the land timber rights along the River, as far as Red Indian Lake. He convinced a Quebec company to build a sawmill at Ship Cove (later to be named Botwoodsville, in honour of its corporate patron), formed the Exploits Lumber Company with an associate, and launched a thriving forestry industry that continues to form the foundation of the Exploits valley economy. • Harry J. Crow - In 1903, the name of Harry J. Crow became synonymous with Newfoundland lumbering. He established Newfoundland Timber Estates Limited, the New Land Lumber and Pulp Company and the Newfoundland Pine and Pulp Company, purchasing most of the island's sawmills in the process. In 1905, Crow sold Newfoundland Timber Estates to the fledgling Anglo Newfoundland Development Company, but continued to operate a large mill at Botwood. Crow was admired not only for his entrepreneurial skills, but also for his generosity and social progressiveness. He established a kindergarten and social services centre in Botwood, and introduced amenities such as showers, recreation facilities, night classes and lectures to his logging camps.